Last month I posted how to give the farmhouse table a weathered finish. You can find the post here.
Since then, I received a couple of emails asking for the plans. I'm posting the plan below with two warnings - 1) I used a Kreg to screw the pieces together. So if you do not own a Kreg system, you may need to make a few modifications to secure the pieces. 2) Please note I used pressure treated legs on my table (a. I added so many layers of paint, stain and poly, and b. my children and animals are out of the nibble on everything in sight phase). I'm pretty sure if you have any concerns with yourself or animals or children you will want to go with the cedar 4" x 4" posts to avoid any possible issues with the chemical in the pressure treated wood.
Here is the finished piece today.
I also created a rustic narrow wood centerpiece. I've since filled with glasses and new fall decor. You can see that post here.
Farmhouse Table - Cut List:
4 - 4"x4" 30" legs (adjust to your needs)
5 - 2"x4" 36" side supports and under table support
3 - 2"x4" 60" side supports and lower center brace
4 - 2"x4" 12" bracing pieces cut on 45 degree angles
Top
4 - 2"x12" 6' Long
2 - 2"x4" 36" to connect the top together and add extra support
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| Use 2 2" kreg screws on each end of the 2x4 pieces and secure to the legs |
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| Add the center support |
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| Add the lower leg supports the same as the uppers. I set mine 5" up from the bottom. Adjust to your needs. |
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| Add the center cross brace at the bottom. I didn't add one to mine, but if you plan on moving it often without the center suppot, it will not be as solid. |
 |
| You may want to cut the top support pieces slightly smaller (1/8"-1/4") than the 36" to give yourself a bit of wiggle room to fit the completed top onto the base. I attached the top on the ground, but that's just how I wanted to do it. |
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| Add the cross brace pieces. This is what you will screw 2.5" screws through to secure the frame to the top and to add extra strength to the legs. |
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| Grab a friend and throw the top into place. Attach the top on the braces. |
Thank you for stopping over today to check out my DIY blog. I hope you can follow me for future projects (good or bad...you never know).
XO
Karen
Linking to:
Tip Junkie
36th Avenue
Thrifty Decor Chick
Homestoriesatoz
MissMustardSeed
justagirlblog
Thirtyhandmadedays
Remodelaholic
Tatertotsandjello
Awesome piece -- and I think you've explained it beautifully!
ReplyDeleteThanks Laurie. I kept thinking I was missing something. :)
ReplyDeleteI am so glad I just found your blog!! You are so talented and have great projects. I would love to try and make your copy cat bedside table and simple end table! I love that you give us the measurements! I am trying to remodel my house and I would love to add some new wooden pieces to it.
ReplyDeleteWow great tutorial! I love farmhouse tables :) Looks great! Visiting from homestoriesatoz
ReplyDeleteThank you Jenn. I hope you are able to use a few of the projects. I will be adding another nightstand table project soon.
ReplyDeleteThanks for visiting Jessica :)
This was wonderful! It's so hard to find a good kitchen table! Come see the Ferris Bueller chairs.
ReplyDeleteWow, this is amazing. I wish I was this talented.
ReplyDeleteIt looks great! You did such a nice job!
ReplyDeletePam
What a gorgeous table!! I am so envious of anyone who dares to build furniture!! Fabulous job!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much. :) You guys made me smile.
ReplyDeleteVery pretty table, I love how thick the top is!
ReplyDeleteThanks Brooke. That was the main reason I made this table. I wanted a sturdy table and couldn't find a reasonably priced piece I liked.
ReplyDeleteOh wow! This is a really great piece of furniture! I am so impressed that you made this! Thanks for the 'how-to'! I would love to have you share this @ Show & Share--
ReplyDeletehttp://southernlovely.blogspot.com/2011/09/show-share-4.html
How much does this cost to make? Thanks!
ReplyDelete~Kristi
Beautiful! Thanks for sharing, I'm going to Pin it!!
ReplyDeleteThank you! I think is cost about $50 to make, but I had the 2x4s, stain and paint already on hand. If you buy the cedar 4x4s if will be about $20 more. Not bad compared to a store bought table.
ReplyDeleteShared on my facebbok page!
ReplyDeleteLove it!
That's a gorgeous table! Good for you to be able to make one!
ReplyDeleteThank you Desiree, that was very sweet of you to do :)
ReplyDeleteThanks Ellie.
WOW! This is AMAZING & I LOVE it! We have been thinking about making a table like this for a long time. Your tutorial is so simple to follow. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteYou are welcome Yuhasz Family. The hardest part was lifting the top onto the table base. Those large chunks of wood are heavy. So, made I shouldn't have explained it that way in the details. xo
ReplyDeleteHow does it work for the settings on the ends of the table? It seems like the lower leg supports would take away all the leg space. Are those supports absolutely necessary? Or are they not really in the way (just my imagination lol)?
ReplyDeleteI'm hoping to start this project this weekend. My wife absolutely loves this table!
The cross supports will impede the leg room for those folks on the end, but I did it just to keep the legs from coming loose (with movement). It would be your decision, I didn't build it with them originally, but added at the end. Again, it was just a back up to keep the legs from coming out at the top when we move it. You could also consider extending the top boards a bit longer to cantilever over at the ends to keep the leg room. I would love to hear how it goes. Thanks :)
ReplyDeleteOne more question from a newbie...what kind or poly did you use - high gloss or semi-gloss?
ReplyDelete(I'm not good enough to tell from the pics lol)
Hi David, I used semi-gloss poly. It is shiny, but not too shiny. Have fun and ask any other questions that come up :)
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteLove your table, I have been telling my husband I want to build the table for over a month. I don't have the kreg system, do you think Kreg Jig Mini would do the job?
ReplyDeleteI'm sure it works the same as the system, just without the holder attachment? As long as the mini works on 2x4s it will work.
ReplyDeleteI am a newbie too. My husband and I want to build this table, but we do not like the braces at the ends. Do you think the end braces could be raised up to a higher position to allow end seating?
ReplyDelete@Courtney Personally, I would keep them and just make the top a bit longer. But as I mentioned above, if you don't move your furniture all the time it should be fine without them. I built mine at first without them but added because of the weight of the post legs. You could also build it with the turned legs you can find at Lowe's and Home Depot. They aren't as heavy...but then you may need to use 1x on the top instead of 2x due to the weight. The four pieces of 2x on the top is very heavy. But I wanted the chunky look. You should check out www.ana-white.com for other great table designs. She has several on her site. I hope I answered your questions. Good luck with your new hobby! :)
ReplyDelete@Karen @ The Quaint Cottage
ReplyDeleteThank you for your feedback. We live in Honduras, so sourcing things will be interesting. I prefer the heavier chunky look too. We'll probably go with the end braces and not even miss the end seating.
@Anonymous Oh, I can't wait to see how your table looks. I bet you have some nice species of wood available in Honduras.
ReplyDeletewould there be any important difference if you used 1"x12" boards instead of 2"x12" boards for the top? These plans look awesome!
ReplyDelete@Christine The only difference I can see may be the need for additional support for the 1" lumber. Instead of the center 2x4 support, you may want to add four or five 2x2s equally spaced to hold the top.
ReplyDeleteHi, I read through the instructions and noticed you had 2" by 12" material for the top, do you use "2by 12's from a lumber yard that are actually 1 1/2" thick or do you use true 2" stock... and if so where do you get it? thanks!
ReplyDeleteHi Stacia. The lumber I listed is the size they refer to at the lumber yard. The true size is 1.5" thick. Thanks :)
ReplyDeletehow do the top pieces connect to each other? I noticed the 2 strips on the back but you don't explain how they are attached or what secures each plank to each as one solid piece. Please explain
ReplyDeleteThanks for the detailed plans and the table is great. We made a farmhouse table as well, though we bought legs for a slightly different feel. But I think both ways work well.
ReplyDeleteYou can check out our table (in a blog post) here: http://shirleyandchris.net/blog/2012/02/18/diy-farmhouse-table-and-bench/
@Anonymous I attached the planks to the two pieces of wood with screws.
ReplyDelete@Chris Great table!
ReplyDeletesooooo sexy!! i'm looking to make a narrow farmhouse table like this. Would I just cut the dimensions in half? Would i still need the center support? Thanks! i'm so pumped!!
ReplyDeleteUsed your plans for our new table!! Just awesome! It was our first time doing woodwork and my wife and I had an incredible time building this great table. Thank you for getting me started in a wonderful hobby.
ReplyDeleteI have ended my search. Your version of the farmhouse table is absolutely perfect. I was wondering what type of wood you used for the top? Thought pine, but I don't see any knots (could be my computer). Thanks!
ReplyDeleteThe diy farmhouse table given her \e is fantastic. Have a look at it
ReplyDeleteBeautiful farmhouse table ~ what color/brand of stain did you use? I really love the richness of this stain, it's exactly what I would like to have:)
ReplyDeleteAny idea what additional modifications I would need to make if I don't have a Kreg system?
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